YANGDONG, ANOTHER KOREA

Korea boasts several places designated as "folk villages." Behind this somewhat Disneyland-esque label lie remarkably well-preserved traditional villages which, due to their limited number, have become major tourist destinations. Yangdong is one of them. Located about 30 kilometers north of Gyeongju, it belongs to a more discreet, less immediately spectacular, but profoundly memorable side of Korea when one takes the time to explore it.

During the day, the village is very busy, and the perception of its charm can be diminished. Groups pass by, cameras click away. You have to be willing to slow down your pace for the place to truly reveal itself.

A VILLAGE CONCEIVED AS A WORLD ORDER

Yangdong was founded in the 15th century, during the Joseon Dynasty, by prominent Confucian scholars. This is not a trivial historical detail, but a crucial key to understanding the town, as its development was not haphazard; it was designed according to a very specific vision of society, where the organization of space reflected the moral and social order.

Thatched-roof houses stretch out below, close to the cultivated fields, while the stately homes with tiled roofs occupy the higher ground, opening onto the landscape. This hierarchy is not harsh; it is subtle, almost gentle, inscribed in the slope of the land and the natural flow of the eye. This arrangement also allows for multiple experiences in one, offering an interesting perspective on village life.

ARCHITECTURE OF EVERYDAY LIFE

The houses in Yangdong are beautiful without necessarily trying to be, and nothing is polished in this village; it's actually very lively (even downright chaotic in some courtyards!). Weathered wood, earthen walls, gently curving roofs, inner courtyards sheltered from the wind. Everything seems on a scale appropriate for everyday life; you get the sense that these dwellings were designed to be lived in, to last, to age alongside their inhabitants.

Nature is ever-present, everything is harmonious. Vegetable gardens border the houses, trees bend under their fruit, and gentle hills envelop the village. Whether it's the thatched-roof houses below or the more stately ones perched higher up, the whole creates a remarkably coherent landscape where nothing seems out of place.

TIME AS AN ALLY

The most exceptional way to truly appreciate it is to arrive in the late afternoon, after all the tour buses have left, spend the night, and depart before the end of the morning. The village then returns to its residents. Yangdong is not a museum village. It is small, but vibrant and inhabited, mainly by elderly people busy in their cultivated gardens. Only the overgrown telephone booth hints that the village has yet to embrace modernity; otherwise, cell phones are readily available.

There's a gentleness in this village that's deeply moving. A gentleness without sentimentality, made up of slow rhythms, of presences, of greetings that transcend the language barrier. You don't really visit anymore, you observe, you walk, you stop for no particular reason.

With luck, you'll visit a village that changes with the hours and the light, unfolding infinite variations that create very different atmospheres depending on the time of day. In the low, golden light of evening, or the misty, mysterious light of morning, Yangdong is never quite the same.

INNER KOREA

Yangdong doesn't try to seduce, doesn't tell a spectacular story, but reveals something else entirely. It shows an inner, calm Korea, structured and shaped by centuries of ordinary life and Confucian thought. A place where history isn't told on panels, but inscribed in the spaces, the distances, the customs, the encounters, and the moments of wonder.

We leave with a lasting impression, that of having experienced a different temporality, slower, quieter, and yet profoundly alive. A real gem, without a doubt!

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Yangdong is located about 30 kilometers north of Gyeongju (which can be reached in about 2 hours by KTX train from Seoul, with several daily connections). To get to Yangdong from Gyeongju, you can take a bus (irregular schedule) or, more simply, a taxi, for about €20.

Be aware that I didn't see any places to have lunch or dinner in Yangdong, so you should bring some food for a picnic in your room in the evening. The only exception to this is that some guesthouses might offer a welcome snack upon arrival. At mine, where I arrived at 3:30 pm, the hostess had prepared a wonderful afternoon tea for me—more like a late lunch or early dinner—which was more than enough to keep me going until breakfast the next morning. But just to be safe, it's best to bring what you need.

My guesthouse, Hyangdan House, was spectacular, a stately home perched atop a small hill overlooking the village. Five hundred years old, it boasts a rich history that the owner, Nan-hee, is delighted to share (a translation app is essential here for communication!). This house is the largest in the village, once having as many as 99 rooms (though part was sadly destroyed during the Korean War), all dark wood, hanji paper partitions, and nooks and crannies. It's incredibly charming! Here, you sleep Korean-style, without any comfort upgrades, directly on the hard floor (no tatami mats in Korea!), on a very thin mattress. The bathroom is outside the house and is extremely basic. All of this is, of course, part of the experience, but it won't be for everyone, so keep that in mind to avoid disappointment.

This house is listed on Airbnb , but the inconsistent Korean translation makes selecting a room and booking a bit tricky. Be patient, though; it's definitely worth it!

Photos © Atelier Ikiwa